The open skinning method is usually used on varmints that are in the 'barrel shaped' category, such as Raccoons, Skunks and Beavers. The method is usually easier then the case skinning method and the pelt is more suited to making a wall or floor display.

Tools needed:

A sharp knife - I cannot emphasize enough on how important it is to have a razor sharp knife. Skinning with a sharp knife is easy. Skinning with a dull knife is torture.

Rubber/Latex gloves – Some of the critters have diseases or other bugs that could make you quite ill if you have open sores or some other way for them to get from the insides of the varmint to the insides of you.

Bugbracers – These are no more then a pair of tube socks that has had the toes cut out of them and dusted liberally with flea and tick powder. They will help prevent the ticks and/or fleas that are on the varmint from taking up residence on you.

Plastic bags – To hold the pelt after skinning.

Dog Choke Chain – Works great for hanging the varmint from a tree, fence pole or the tailgate of the truck.

Open Skinning:

Step 1: Make a cut just below the knee or ankle of each leg of the animal.

Step 2: Starting with the back legs make cuts on the inside of the leg following the line that separates the light colored fur from the darker colored fur. Cut down each leg to an imaginary line in the center of the varmints belly, just in front of its anus.

Step 3: Cut Around the anus and begin a cut from the base of the tail to the tip. Use your fingers to separate the tailbone from the skin.

Step 4: Cut from the intersection of the two leg cuts up the center of the body. Go slightly to the side of the penis if it’s there. Continue this cut all to halfway up the lower jaw.

Step 5: Make two cuts on each front leg, following the centerline of each leg, back to the cut made along the centerline of the body. Here you can use some discretion to how you want the pelt to lay, cuts toward the front of the front legs will hump the legs a bit, giving a little more ‘body’ to a wall display. Cuts along the centerline or slightly to the rear of the centerline will allow the legs to lay flat better suited to rug type displays.

Step 6: Once all the cuts are made begin working the pelt off, beginning with the rear legs and working towards the front, by working your fingers between the skin and the flesh. Be careful around any bullet holes as a small tear can become a large one by mistake. Keep working at pulling the skin off, using your knife only when absolutely necessary.

Step 7: Once you have the skin worked from the legs, back and stomach areas, pull it over the top of the head and up against the ear bases. Stretch the skin a bit and trim off the ears, making as small a hole as possible.

Step 8: Continue to trim and pull the skin down past the eyes and down the muzzle. Trim off the lips. Finally trim the nose off at the base. BE CAREFUL IN THIS AREA!!! It is very easy to cut holes into the muzzle area. The skin here is very thin.

Trim off any large pieces of flesh or fat that is visible on the pelt. The oily fat will discolor the pelt as it dries. Flesh will make the pelt decay much faster.. Rot causes hair loss and discoloration. Both are bad things. Clean it up now while it is easy and you're good to go.

You’re done! Fold the pelt in half, flesh against flesh, and roll it up loosely for transport. I use plastic grocery bags to transport the pelt. I also will give a couple good shakes of flea killer powder into the bag to kill any critters that called the coyote home.